In this blog post, we will follow up on the information and steps taken in Exterior Painting PREP. Painting the home is quite a cleaner and quicker process than prepping it; making it more enjoyable and giving more instant gratification (which just feels good). We will explore the method BCPR uses when painting a home: from initial coat on the body to touchups and cleanup.
Setting Up Sprayer
Setup the airless sprayer: find wall outlet, connect extension cord from wall to sprayer, place sprayer and 5 gallon bucket of body color to be used on top of THICK drop cloth, gather empty 5 gallon bucket (for water in the pump/hose line), 2 crescent wrenches (for loosening/tightening hoses and filters), and appropriate-size spray tip and housing (usually 5-17 or 6-21). Place pump line into body paint bucket, place prime hose in empty bucket, allow paint to run through pump in prime mode, then turn off, place prime hose in paint bucket, and run 1 more minute. Switch to spray, run paint through hose until it comes out tip (spraying water into empty bucket),
Check Masking/Drops & Sprayer Pressure
It is crucial to check all your masking edges for adhesion, along with checking for holes in plastic and papered areas. Along with the masking, check that drops are secured and placed over any areas that may collect overspray (within 5-10 feet of sprayed surfaces). This includes fences, plants, walkways, decks, lawn equipment and furniture, and anything else that shouldn’t have fresh paint on it. The final step before spraying is to check the pressure on the sprayer to make sure it is set at the appropriate level for covering the siding (highest pressure, then back-off 1/4 or 1/2 turn).
You are now ready to spray!
Spraying Body/Soffits (1st Coat)
The first coat on the body is the heaviest coat; to help fill cracks in the siding/stucco, and to provide as much added coverage as possible. This allows the second coat to be for full coverage and a smooth finish. You will want to spray enough on so that the paint looks thick but not drippy. There is a fine line.
Some tips for the first coat:
-Be sure to have a 6” roller setup (3/8” nap) to lap up drips or even-out small sections.
-A large roller (9" or 12”, 3/4” nap) should be used to back roll large areas of siding (especially on sun-beaten sides).
-Your spray onto the wall should be in an arc with your wrist slowly changing angles to keep the spraying directly at the surface being painted. This prevents “stop marks” where paint will run, from starting and stopping too close to the wall.
-Use the “box-pattern” technique combined with “cross-hatching”
-Box-Pattern means spraying a box, right to left, top to bottom, left to right, and finishing bottom to top. Only go as far as your dominant arm will let you to ensure continuity in your spraying. Fill in the box, spraying from left to right and then right to left, overlapping slightly as you go.
-Cross-Hatch means spraying at both diagonals inside your box once it is filled in. Start from the bottom left and spray up left, hitting every diagonal in the box as you go right, then start from the other side; reversing your angle.
-Each box and cross-hatch should take you no more than 10 minutes.
-For second story or 8'+ walls, you will need a step ladder or even extension ladder to reach higher areas. Make your boxes smaller to accommodate being on the ladder.
-For eaves/soffits, you will make an even smaller box within the area to ensure complete coverage. Wood here will not soak up paint as well, so prepare for a slightly lighter coat.
-It is usually best to start on the SE corner of the house and work clockwise (S->W->N->E) to work in front of the heat of the sun; keeping you in the shade (so you can see your lines), and your paint drying in the sun behind you. This only works if you start in the early morning (2-3 hours after sunrise).
Spraying Body/Soffits (2nd Coat)
Not all paint jobs require a second coat, but if longevity and full coverage (in terms of color change) are important to you; then it is always recommended. The first coat should dry for approximately four hours (per side) before attempting to start the second coat. If there is just a slight stickiness to the surface (without smearing the paint at all), then it is ready for the second coat. Usually, this time frame has already elapsed by the time the first coat is finished anyway, so if you have enough paint, time, and energy; then go for it! If not, it’s alight to wait until the following day, but you will need to start the process over (checking masking & drops, etc).
Tips for the second coat:
-Do a thorough inspection of the 1st coat before spraying to check for areas that are missed or lightly covered, so you know where to focus.
-Check masking once again before you start 2nd coat.
-2nd coat is much lighter application. The goals are evenness of spray and full color coverage.
-The “box” technique will work for the 2nd coat. A light “cross-hatch” misting of the box may help even out certain lighter areas.
-Always be looking for “holidays,” which are missed areas or spots that aren’t coated fully enough.
-Eaves/soffits (unless you have drastic color change) usually don’t require a second coat, but it never hurts :)
-Clean sprayer while allowing paint to dry (see cleaning sprayer section)
-Allow paint to dry for approximately 1 hour before pulling down all masking.
-Keep drops plus roof, concrete, and deck masking in place for trim painting.
Cleaning Sprayer
Run water through pump and hoses, return paint to original bucket, clean the filters in the pump and gun, and thoroughly clean the spray tips and housings using a 5-in-1 tool and small wire brush, and finally wrap the hoses used.
Brushing/Rolling Trim & Fascia (1st Coat)
For most homes, using a 6” roller (3/8” nap) is adequate for painting all trim and fascia surfaces. Occasionally, a 4” roller (same nap size) will be more ideal; for instances involving narrower trim boards. A 3.5” angle sash painter’s brush is recommended for cutting in trim corners and smoothing out drips. As with spraying, it is best to start on the SE corner of the house, and work top to bottom, right to left (clockwise) until you reach your starting location.
Tips for trim & fascia:
-Roll out every possible inch before using your brush; this will save you the most time possible.
-Unless you have a particular need to spent hours painting with a brush, then leaving the sides of window and door trim “un-wrapped,” meaning body color instead of trim, is ideal. This allows you to only paint the face of the trim in about 1/3 of the time.
-Start high and work across; you will want continuous lines. Working down allows paint to dry as you move across, showing exactly where you stopped each time (making the paint job uneven).
-Have a ladder hook to hold your bucket while you’re in the air- plus a screen for your roller to remove excess paint, and a screw into your brush handle so it can rest on the inside of the bucket between uses.
-1st coat on trim & fascia is the cut-in and adhesion coat. 2nd coat should be heavier and faster.
Brushing/Rolling Trim & Fascia (2nd Coat)
The only difference here between coats is that cut-in isn’t always required (at least not as fine-detailed), and the coat should be heavier than the first to allow full coverage and prevent fading. Even if the color is staying the same as before the repaint, two coats is always recommended on trim and fascia. A third coat is recommended on South and West facing sides of the house, as they receive the most sun exposure.
Brushing/Rolling Doors (All Coats)
Unless you are a professional, I would avoid attempting to spray any doors on your home (aside from the garage door). It is best to roll out the large areas of the door with a 4” roller (1/8” nap) and then cut-in the corners with a 2.5” angle sash painter’s brush. All door coats should be as light of an application as possible while still covering every square inch of the door. Typically, the first coat is just for cut-in and base layer; second coat is for coverage and durability; while third coat is for evenness of finish and removing drips/lines/brush marks (the product Flotrol works well here).
Touchups
Spend about 30 minutes walking around house in one direction (counter-clockwise) to inspect your work. Look for any missed areas, drips, lightly coated areas, smeared lines, or otherwise. Spend another 30 minutes walking in the opposite direction (clockwise) as a final inspection. Touchup with the 2.5” brush and only as much paint as is needed for each area (make sure you have appropriate color for each touchup).
Cleanup Jobsite
Remove the remaining masking, fold up all drops, wash brushes & return them to brush containers, discard roller covers, rinse out buckets, close all paint containers, sweep walkways, wash windows, and you have a home that looks brand new!
Stay tuned for our next post: Exterior House/Deck STAINING