How To: Exterior Home & Deck STAINING

In July, we covered the steps necessary to properly prepare surfaces on your home and deck for staining. This month, we will explore what it takes to properly setup staining equipment, stain the surfaces you prepped, and do a thorough cleanup while still allowing the stain to dry and cure completely.

Double Check Masking/Weather Conditions

As mentioned in Exterior Staining Prep, you will want to mask the edges of the stained areas (shingles, trim, or deck) with masking plastic or wax paper. Double check that the tape lines are straight and have adhesion. Double check that plastic is tacked down so it can’t blow onto the stained surface while it’s wet. Double check that leaves, dirt, or debris won’t blow onto your newly stained deck if it’s too windy out. All of these conditions are crucial to ensuring your stain job doesn’t get a huge blemish right after you finish.

Setting Up Staining Equipment

There are numerous ways to stain a deck, shingles, and trim. We will explain the method BCPR uses that is most effective and yet easy enough for a non-professional to carry out. For each area, there are different tools needed, so we will explore each individually.

Deck Staining Equipment

• Cut-in brush: 3.5” angle sash staining brush (oil-base or water-base depending on which stain you select)
• Wool staining pad: there are ones with small handles on them, however we recommend using the wider pole-mounted pads; this allows for quicker application (and you don’t have to bend over)
• Extension pole for staining pad (usually 4’ is sufficient)
• Empty 5 gallon bucket for stain, along with large bucket screen to press out extra stain in the pad (a rolling tray is also sufficient)
• Drop cloth for stain bucket to be placed upon
• Multiple rags for over-application or drips
• Lacquer thinner for messes on non-stained surfaces
• Stain of choice (we will discuss how to select the proper stain for your needs later)

Shingle Staining Equipment

• NOTE: although BCPR does apply stain to large shingle areas using an airless sprayer; we do not recommend this to homeowners without extensive spraying experience. The process can be extremely messy and complicated to work with. 
• Large (9” or 12”) wool roller cover, 3/4” nap
• Roller frame
• Extension pole (2’, 4’, 6’, and even 8’ may be required, depending on height of area and availability of ladders)
• Empty 5 gallon bucket & screen (for 9” roller) or 12” roller tray to hold stain
• Cut-in brush: 4” wide bristle staining brush (you pay for the quality you receive here, so don’t skimp)
• Drop cloths to place under stain bucket/tray and areas to be stained
• Multiple rags for cleanup and drips
• Lacquer thinner for messes on non-stained surfaces
• Small roller (4” or 6”, 3/8” nap) for stain runs and drips (these are almost guaranteed to happen)
• Stain of choice

Trim/Railing Staining Equipment

• Hand-held wool staining pad (with handle)
• Cut-in brush: 3.5” angle sash staining brush (oil-base or water-base depending on stain selection)
• Empty 2 gallon bucket with screen for stain
• Drop cloths to place under stain bucket and areas that are being stained
• Multiple rags for over-application and drips (bound to happen)
• Lacquer thinner for messes on non-stained surfaces
• Stain of choice

Selecting Stain

Selecting stain can be a quite an arduous process if one isn’t educated about their home and the endless stain options available. We will explore this topic fully in another blog post, but for now; here are the basic rules of thumb:

• Match stain base (if the previous surface was oil-base, purchase oil-base; and vice-versa for water-base stain)
• Match stain opacity (there are transparent, semi-transparent, semi-opaque, opaque, and solid stains- they increase in opacity in this order. You may increase the opacity, but cannot reduce it without completely removing original product; keep this in mind).
• Conduct brand research- as this is an evolving industry; there are new products all the time. Select a brand you trust, and ask the experts about their opinions on stain, then select based off of your personal budget. We will provide BCPR brand recommendations in our future post about selecting stain.
• NOTE: If you have completely removed existing stain or are working with an unstained surface; have fun! You can select whatever you want! 

Staining Decks

Probably the quickest surface to stain; decks are also the easiest to mess up. Here is the suggested process for a complete, long-lasting, and great-looking stain job:

• Find your starting point (furthest away from deck entrance) and ending point (deck entrance)- you never want to walk on a stained deck for 24-48 hours if you can help it. 
• Cut-in the furthest outside boards of the deck (up against the house, outside edges, etc) with your brush: be sure to move as efficiently as possible- stain absorbs into the prepared deck wood quickly.
• When cutting in, don’t leave a board incomplete; this allows for lines to form in the finished stain job
• As you cut in, pull masking that is up against house (above deck surface), so that you don’t need to walk on the deck again after it is stained fully
• Use your wool pad to start staining one board at a time (working with the grain of the wood) at your starting point
• LESS IS MORE! Only apply enough stain to each board to allow complete absorption, then move to the next; over-application causes puddles which won’t dry and leave darker areas on the deck
• When you are applying stain, attempt to go over each board the least amount of strokes possible: this will ensure you don’t over-apply
• When you do over-apply stain: feel free to take the pad (when there is little or no stain left in it) and run it over the area you stained. When you do this- do a full stroke of the board so you don't leave areas that look “muddled”
• You should be moving backwards as you complete each area, not forward; don’t walk on stained areas!
• Cover the entire deck with one full coat, then leave it! 
• Wait 2-3 hours to pull any remaining masking around stained areas

Staining Shingles

Staining shingles is a similar process to decks: the main difference is instead of working with a horizontal surface; your surface is vertical!

• Your starting point for shingles will always be at the top. You can work right to left around the house (starting at the SE corner) if you have shingles on multiple sides of the house. 
• Cut-in top boards that border trim/siding/eaves and then outer side edge boards, finishing with the bottom edge boards. Any individual shingle that receives stain should be fully coated before moving on. You may even want to cut in 2 layers of shingles if the area you are staining is space limited.
• Beginning at the top, start rolling out shingles in rows of 3 or 4 at a time (maybe more, depending on how much stain your roller holds and how dried the surface is)
• With shingles, you can over-apply the stain and get away with it; you will actually receive a thicker coat and excess will run down the wall creating runs and drips- that’s OK, just roll them up with your weeny roller!
• Once you have completely coated one full area of shingles, double-check for drips and runs (there are sure to be some), and roll them out with your dry or semi-dry roller 
• Wait 2-3 hours to pull any masking that was put up

Staining Trim/Railings

This will be your most time-consuming stain work (if you have it on your home). That is because it is all done by hand. And usually railings have spokes that have four sides and will take forever; so be patient! 

• When working with trim, you will want to start at the top and work down.
• When working with a railing, start on the spokes, then get the bottom of the hand rail, then the bottom support board (if there is one), and finish with the very top of the hand rail. 
• Usually it is better to cut-in the edges of the trim and railings that have tight corners before applying stain with the hand-held pad
• With the pad; LESS IS MORE! It is very, very easy to over-apply here, so make sure to squeeze as much stain out with your bucket screen as possible before you begin each stroke
• As with decks: you only need go over a surface once as long as it is fully coated and there are no drips
• For drips: use your dry or semi-dry pad to lap them up and even out the coat in that area
• Finish one section (inside and out) of railing before moving onto the next. Usually one section is about 5 feet wide (enough for you to get while sitting, crouching, or standing in one spot)
• For trim, complete one board before moving to the next; this will ensure a complete and even coat
• Allow stain to dry 2-3 hours before pulling masking

Cleanup

Cleanup is one of the most important parts of staining. Most people don’t realize; stain is toxic and also extremely flammable. As is lacquer thinner- which is your go-to cleanup product for all staining projects. 

• Wrap all used masking products in a garbage bag before placing them in the trash. Seal the bag thoroughly. 
• Place all used rags and staining applicators (brushes, pads, rollers) into a bucket with thinner in it; let soak for 1-2 hours
• Using a wire-brush; cleanup brushes. Pads should be clean after about one hour of soaking in thinner. Rollers can be discarded (see next step)
• For discarding rags, rollers, and other used staining equipment: place into bucket of water (no thinner) and leave for one day to allow all stain to separate. Then remove equipment from water, wrap in a garbage bag, and throw away. Discard water and used thinner in a place where nothing grows (not down the sink or in your yard), or seal in a container and take to the dump or paint store for proper disposal. 
• Be aware- stain and thinner can cause fires if you leave materials in a pile or a bucket for too long in a warm area. Direct sun exposure or exposure to fire isn’t necessary for this pile to ignite and cause great amounts of damage. Please be diligent here.

You are done staining! Again, don’t walk on stained surfaces for 24-48 hours, and don’t return deck equipment to these areas for that time. The stain requires much more time to dry and cure then paint does. It can easily be tarnished by the slightest scratch of scuffling of feet. The longer you can let the surface cure, the longer it will last!

Stay tuned for How To Guides on selecting your Paint and Stain products!

How To: Exterior House PAINTING

In this blog post, we will follow up on the information and steps taken in Exterior Painting PREP. Painting the home is quite a cleaner and quicker process than prepping it; making it more enjoyable and giving more instant gratification (which just feels good). We will explore the method BCPR uses when painting a home: from initial coat on the body to touchups and cleanup. 

Setting Up Sprayer

Setup the airless sprayer: find wall outlet, connect extension cord from wall to sprayer, place sprayer and 5 gallon bucket of body color to be used on top of THICK drop cloth, gather empty 5 gallon bucket (for water in the pump/hose line), 2 crescent wrenches (for loosening/tightening hoses and filters), and appropriate-size spray tip and housing (usually 5-17 or 6-21). Place pump line into body paint bucket, place prime hose in empty bucket, allow paint to run through pump in prime mode, then turn off, place prime hose in paint bucket, and run 1 more minute. Switch to spray, run paint through hose until it comes out tip (spraying water into empty bucket),

Check Masking/Drops & Sprayer Pressure

It is crucial to check all your masking edges for adhesion, along with checking for holes in plastic and papered areas. Along with the masking, check that drops are secured and placed over any areas that may collect overspray (within 5-10 feet of sprayed surfaces). This includes fences, plants, walkways, decks, lawn equipment and furniture, and anything else that shouldn’t have fresh paint on it. The final step before spraying is to check the pressure on the sprayer to make sure it is set at the appropriate level for covering the siding (highest pressure, then back-off 1/4 or 1/2 turn). 

You are now ready to spray!

Spraying Body/Soffits (1st Coat)

The first coat on the body is the heaviest coat; to help fill cracks in the siding/stucco, and to provide as much added coverage as possible. This allows the second coat to be for full coverage and a smooth finish. You will want to spray enough on so that the paint looks thick but not drippy. There is a fine line. 

Some tips for the first coat:

-Be sure to have a 6” roller setup (3/8” nap) to lap up drips or even-out small sections. 

-A large roller (9" or 12”, 3/4” nap) should be used to back roll large areas of siding (especially on sun-beaten sides). 

-Your spray onto the wall should be in an arc with your wrist slowly changing angles to keep the spraying directly at the surface being painted. This prevents “stop marks” where paint will run, from starting and stopping too close to the wall. 

-Use the “box-pattern” technique combined with “cross-hatching”

    -Box-Pattern means spraying a box, right to left, top to bottom, left to right, and finishing bottom to top. Only go as far as your dominant arm will let you to ensure continuity in your spraying. Fill in the box, spraying from left to right and then right to left, overlapping slightly as you go.

    -Cross-Hatch means spraying at both diagonals inside your box once it is filled in. Start from the bottom left and spray up left, hitting every diagonal in the box as you go right, then start from the other side; reversing your angle. 

-Each box and cross-hatch should take you no more than 10 minutes.

-For second story or 8'+ walls, you will need a step ladder or even extension ladder to reach higher areas. Make your boxes smaller to accommodate being on the ladder. 

-For eaves/soffits, you will make an even smaller box within the area to ensure complete coverage. Wood here will not soak up paint as well, so prepare for a slightly lighter coat. 

-It is usually best to start on the SE corner of the house and work clockwise (S->W->N->E) to work in front of the heat of the sun; keeping you in the shade (so you can see your lines), and your paint drying in the sun behind you. This only works if you start in the early morning (2-3 hours after sunrise). 

Spraying Body/Soffits (2nd Coat)

Not all paint jobs require a second coat, but if longevity and full coverage (in terms of color change) are important to you; then it is always recommended. The first coat should dry for approximately four hours (per side) before attempting to start the second coat. If there is just a slight stickiness to the surface (without smearing the paint at all), then it is ready for the second coat. Usually, this time frame has already elapsed by the time the first coat is finished anyway, so if you have enough paint, time, and energy; then go for it! If not, it’s alight to wait until the following day, but you will need to start the process over (checking masking & drops, etc). 

Tips for the second coat:

-Do a thorough inspection of the 1st coat before spraying to check for areas that are missed or lightly covered, so you know where to focus. 

-Check masking once again before you start 2nd coat. 

-2nd coat is much lighter application. The goals are evenness of spray and full color coverage. 

-The “box” technique will work for the 2nd coat. A light “cross-hatch” misting of the box may help even out certain lighter areas. 

-Always be looking for “holidays,” which are missed areas or spots that aren’t coated fully enough. 

-Eaves/soffits (unless you have drastic color change) usually don’t require a second coat, but it never hurts :)

-Clean sprayer while allowing paint to dry (see cleaning sprayer section)

-Allow paint to dry for approximately 1 hour before pulling down all masking. 

-Keep drops plus roof, concrete, and deck masking in place for trim painting.

Cleaning Sprayer

Run water through pump and hoses, return paint to original bucket, clean the filters in the pump and gun, and thoroughly clean the spray tips and housings using a 5-in-1 tool and small wire brush, and finally wrap the hoses used.

Brushing/Rolling Trim & Fascia (1st Coat)

For most homes, using a 6” roller (3/8” nap) is adequate for painting all trim and fascia surfaces. Occasionally, a 4” roller (same nap size) will be more ideal; for instances involving narrower trim boards. A 3.5” angle sash painter’s brush is recommended for cutting in trim corners and smoothing out drips. As with spraying, it is best to start on the SE corner of the house, and work top to bottom, right to left (clockwise) until you reach your starting location. 

Tips for trim & fascia:

-Roll out every possible inch before using your brush; this will save you the most time possible. 

-Unless you have a particular need to spent hours painting with a brush, then leaving the sides of window and door trim “un-wrapped,” meaning body color instead of trim, is ideal. This allows you to only paint the face of the trim in about 1/3 of the time. 

-Start high and work across; you will want continuous lines. Working down allows paint to dry as you move across, showing exactly where you stopped each time (making the paint job uneven). 

-Have a ladder hook to hold your bucket while you’re in the air- plus a screen for your roller to remove excess paint, and a screw into your brush handle so it can rest on the inside of the bucket between uses. 

-1st coat on trim & fascia is the cut-in and adhesion coat. 2nd coat should be heavier and faster. 

Brushing/Rolling Trim & Fascia (2nd Coat)

The only difference here between coats is that cut-in isn’t always required (at least not as fine-detailed), and the coat should be heavier than the first to allow full coverage and prevent fading. Even if the color is staying the same as before the repaint, two coats is always recommended on trim and fascia. A third coat is recommended on South and West facing sides of the house, as they receive the most sun exposure.

Brushing/Rolling Doors (All Coats)

Unless you are a professional, I would avoid attempting to spray any doors on your home (aside from the garage door). It is best to roll out the large areas of the door with a 4” roller (1/8” nap) and then cut-in the corners with a 2.5” angle sash painter’s brush. All door coats should be as light of an application as possible while still covering every square inch of the door. Typically, the first coat is just for cut-in and base layer; second coat is for coverage and durability; while third coat is for evenness of finish and removing drips/lines/brush marks (the product Flotrol works well here). 

Touchups

Spend about 30 minutes walking around house in one direction (counter-clockwise) to inspect your work. Look for any missed areas, drips, lightly coated areas, smeared lines, or otherwise. Spend another 30 minutes walking in the opposite direction (clockwise) as a final inspection. Touchup with the 2.5” brush and only as much paint as is needed for each area (make sure you have appropriate color for each touchup). 

Cleanup Jobsite

Remove the remaining masking, fold up all drops, wash brushes & return them to brush containers, discard roller covers, rinse out buckets, close all paint containers, sweep walkways, wash windows, and you have a home that looks brand new!

Stay tuned for our next post: Exterior House/Deck STAINING

How To: Exterior Staining PREP

Earlier this month, we gave an in-depth look at the Exterior Painting Prep process. Today we would like to share Bend Custom Painting & Refinishing’s guide to Exterior Staining Prep. Staining and painting wood require very different steps to the preparation, so it is important to distinguish between the two. We hope this post is informational and enjoyable!

Wood Brightening

Wood brightener is your best friend when it comes to prepping any surface for staining. Typical surfaces include: decks, trim boards, railings, beams, and sometimes siding. Wood brightener works on all of them! So what does it do? Essentially wood brightener is a chemical compound that soaks into the wood, penetrating deeper than the existing stain (it is also beneficial for non-stained surfaces). Once the chemical penetrates the wood, the pores expand, helping to dissolve the bond between the existing stain and the surface. This allows for easier removal of existing stain (especially if it is beginning to fail). For new wood/non-stained surfaces, the brightener still helps to open wood pores, which aids in stain absorption.

Application:

-Prior to applying the brightener, you will want to give the surface a light wash with a pressure washer. The application process will be more effective when the surface you are working on is wet first (a regular hose spray nozzle will work fine as well). 

-Using a backpack sprayer, the detergent hose on your pressure washer, or a handheld sprayer (typically used for spraying for insects or weeds), you will mix 3 parts water to 1 part brightener (follow directions on bottle). 

-Applying the brightener to ALL surfaces being stained is recommended. Be sure that the entire surface is covered with the application (small puddles will form and slowly dry up). A RESPIRATOR MASK IS RECOMMENDED (the chemical can make you cough if inhaled at all). 

-Using a hand or pole brush (soft bristles), scrub all surfaces that you have applied the brightener to. This will ensure full penetration of the compound, and will begin to remove existing stain. 

-For heavily stained/charred/mildewed areas, a second coat of spraying application after the scrub is recommended as an extra step towards full preparation of the surface.

-Let brightener sit 15-20 minutes, then use a pressure washer to thoroughly rinse all surfaces off. Get as close to the surface as you can with this wash without damaging the wood (which is easy to do in this stage). The cleaner the wash, the less prep you will have later.

-Let all surfaces dry 2-3 days (depending on weather). Do not commence any further prep until surfaces are fully dried; otherwise the surfaces will not be ready to absorb stain.

Sanding

Once all surfaces are brightened, cleaned, and dried, you are ready for the part that is the most fun: sanding! Just kidding, sanding is the most arduous part of this entire process, but is fully necessary if you wish your stain job to last longer than a few months (especially here in Central Oregon). When stain starts to fail, it opens the wood up to damage from the elements, and it essentially becomes useless. That is why it is recommended that all decks (and most stained surfaces) be refinished every 1-2 years. 

What is the difference in this time span between stainings? Sanding. 

Sanding Tips: 

-You will absolutely want a power sander of some sort. At Bend Custom Painting & Refinishing, we have three sanders we use: the hand detail sander, the hand orbital sander, and the floor orbital sander. Each of these serves a specific purpose: the detail sander is for tight corners, final sanding touchup, and in between deck boards; the orbital sander is great for railings and trim, and can also be used on the deck boards (for smaller decks); the floor sander is for larger decks.

-The two hand sanders are fairly affordable and can be purchased at any home improvement lot store. If you can only purchase one, opt for the orbital, as it has many functions. The floor sander can be rented from many tool warehouses for usually around ~$50/day. 

-Sanding is recommended in 2-3 stages, in terms of the coarseness of the grit of the sandpaper. Usually, you will want to start with 40 grit sandpaper for most surfaces that have existing stain (if there is no stain or it is new wood, once over lightly with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper will be sufficient). The first time through, you are really taking your time to remove as much of the stain as possible. It is important to notice how much wood you take off the surface, because 40 grit can really grind down the wood quickly.

-The second pass of sanding should be with 60 grit sandpaper and is more used for catching all the edges that were missed and evening out where you may have taken off too much wood.

-The final pass should be with 80 grit sandpaper and is designed as a finish coat. You are looking for a smooth and even surface for all areas you are staining.

Blowing Off

It may seem silly to include this as a step, but it is extremely important. Blowing off the surfaces you are staining once you have sanded is crucial to stain absorbing properly. You want to use a leaf-blower or the like to remove all wood and stain dust particles that you have created from sanding. Literally you want to be able to eat off of your surfaces, so check by rubbing your hand over many different areas just to be sure. If you don’t have a leaf blower, renting one is fairly affordable as well.

Masking

Although not always required (especially for decks and rails), masking can help save a lot of cleanup time and so is usually recommended. You will want to use a high quality tape (we use Frog Tape here at BCPR) to have definitive lines between your stained surface and non-stained surfaces. Once the lines are in place, using 18 inch wax masking paper or 24 inch masking plastic should be sufficient for most jobs. Be aware: stain may still leak through if dripping becomes too heavy.

Be sure to tack down the back edges of the plastic or the paper using any brand of masking/Scotch tape (Frog Tape is not necessary here).

Check Surroundings

If it is too windy, too hot (>90), or too cold (<60), you will not want to stain that day. Why? Wind causes leaves and other debris to fly through the air and land directly in the middle of your freshly stained deck. When it is too hot, it can be extremely difficult to get a nice even finish to your stained surface, because the product will dry as fast as you apply it (creating lines between strokes). When it is too cold, the stain won’t dry fast enough and can take days (allowing more time for debris to land on the surface, as well as moisture from evening cloud cover/morning dew to seep into the wood and mingle with the stain).

You'll also want to check that branches aren't overhanging surfaces to be stained, along with other plants being right against the surface. Trimming back beforehand can save a lot of headache later.  

When you hire BCPR, we are trained to deal with any condition, and will always advise you if weather does not permit our staining that day. However, when you do not have a team of trained professionals to stain for you; there are many risks you will face. 

Staining

We will go into further detail on the staining process, as well as what stains to select for what surfaces, and what products we at BCPR recommend in future blog posts. Stay tuned! Until next time. 

How To: Exterior Painting PREP

Just about every person on the planet can PAINT a house. Simply apply using a brush, roller, or sprayer. Easy, right? Well, that part is easy, yes. However, most professional (and long-lasting) painting contractors know that a paint job is nearly 75% (if not MORE) PREP WORK. There are many different facets of the surface preparation for any home; and I would like to take some time to visit all areas, so that our readers can be more informed and have a more complete view of the painting process. 

Surface Washing

There are two steps in the washing for any exterior surface. The first is to simply remove all items from walls that are not permanent fixtures, plus moving lawn furniture and other items away from walls. The second step is to rent or buy a pressure washer (usually minimum 1500 PSI), hook up a garden hose, turn on the water, fire up the washer, and start washing! 

Some washing tips:

-Start from the top down. Starting at the bottom will allow all the runoff from above to dirty the surface below.

-Pick a corner of the house to start and work in one direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). This just helps to keep things organized. 

-Have plenty of gas waiting. The washing of an entire house can take 2-4 hours, so be prepared to fill up the gas tank at least once (more likely 2-3 times). 

-Get as close as possible without scarring the wood/stucco. The closer you can get, the cleaner the surface will be. Scarring the wood/stucco is hard to repair, so find your distance carefully. 

-Target dirty, moldy, dusty, cobwebbed, and peeling areas. These are the dirtiest areas and usually require the most prep work after the wash. A thorough wash of these areas can save you hours of prep time though!

-Be prepared to get wet! Water always comes off the higher areas of the house in droves, so wear clothes you can get wet and be ready for a face full of it! 

-Have a ladder handy, as those hard to reach eave/soffit areas, plus second story (or third story) homes will require you to be higher than ground level to get a thorough cleaning.

Why do we wash?

Pressure washing the home is your easiest way to save hours of prep work such as scraping and sanding peeling areas, and scrubbing dirty areas. Additionally, the wash of the home is essential to removing dust particulates that may prevent the existing painted surfaces from allowing paint adhesion. The cleaner the surface, the better the adhesion.

BONUS!

For extra dirty and moldy surfaces, a natural mildewcide wash prior to the power wash can aid in mold removal and prevention; helping the paint job last longer and keeping your home free of harmful contaminants!

Scrape, Sand, Prime, Caulk, & Patch

By far the most overlooked part of any paint job, these are the tasks that make or break the longevity of your job. Once the surface is washed and given 2-3 days to dry (depending on region and recent weather), you will want to begin the diligent process of finding "localized failures." A localized failure is any area of the house that has peeling paint, cracks in the wood/stucco, wood/stucco damage, 'bumpy' paint (from moisture expansion), major fading, or just bare wood/stucco.

When we find these areas, the (industry standard) process is as follows: 

-Using a scraping tool (14-In-1 or scraper), you will want to remove all loose paint chips from the surface. Make sure to go at it from all angles, being careful not to scar the wood (as bare wood can be particularly soft). I suggest picking a 1 by 1 square foot section and finishing before moving on. 

-Once the paint chips are removed, you will want to hand sand or power sand (depending on the location and size of the area) any areas you scraped that now have what is called a lip. A lip is the edge between the previously painted surface and the newly exposed bare surface. When there is any lip that is visible or can be felt to the touch, this allows moisture to seep underneath even after the new primer and paint has been applied and dried. Removing the lip is one of the most important parts of the prep process, so be diligent with your sanding. I suggest starting with a coarse grit sandpaper (usually 50 grit), and then using more fine paper as the lips become smaller (down to about 100 grit). Again, focus on 1x1 square foot areas and complete them before moving on.

-Now that the entire home is scraped and sanded, you'll want to get rid of all those loose paint chips and dust that you removed. A power blower is your best friend here. Starting from the top down, blow off all surfaces and collect all chips/dust into one area for easy sweeping and removal. Just know that you won't get every little piece :)

-When the surface has been blown off, you are ready for priming! What is primer? This is the substance we use that allows paint to adhere to bare surfaces! There are many different brands of primer on the market, all of which are substantial enough to get the job done. You will want to make sure that all bare areas receive a coat of primer, and for extra dirty homes/drastic color change, a full coat of primer (even over existing painted surfaces) is recommended. 

NOTE: There are many specialty primers, mostly focused on stopping major peeling. These primers can be useful when budget and/or time are limiting factors in getting your job done. While the longevity will be reduced when using these specialty products (vs a full scrape/sand/prime procedure), they will assist in bonding the peeling materials so that full adhesion and water protection can take place. 

-When all bare areas have been primed, then you are ready for caulking. Be aware: it is VERY easy to overdo the caulking! You are looking for larger than hairline cracks in the wall (stick a pencil tip in to see if it fits- caulk if it does!). When you apply caulk, you will want to do a thin bead (only as thick as needed to cover and press into the crack), run over it once with your finger, then take a damp cloth and wipe off any excess. Caulking is also useful for warping corner boards, gaps in siding, stucco cracks, and filling holes prior to patching. Be sure to select a 25+ year brand of caulking that is designed for exterior use (NOT SILICONE) and to be painted over. 

-Finally, once everything has been scraped, sanded, primed, and caulked, we are ready for the final cosmetic touch-up: patching! Commonly, patching is used strictly as a cosmetic procedure, but can assist in longevity of the paint job when done correctly. There are also industrial strength patching compounds that can be used for tougher jobs. You first will want to select a patching agent designed for the type of surface that your home has (wood/stucco). For stucco patches, there are varying texture levels, so choose appropriately. Using a putty knife or patching float, apply the patch to the damaged area: first you will want to FILL the damaged area completely, second you will SMOOTH the surface to match existing texture. This may take two coats, so be patient. Once you have matched the texture as closely as possible, you may want to sand any excess patching compound off the surface. Finally, when you have cleaned the surface with a blower or rag, you will want to prime the patch for adhesion (yes, even if it is a primer/patch-in-one product). This procedure will work for industrial strength compounds as well, such as epoxy. 

Masking

Masking can be the Achilles heel of paint jobs, or it can save you the most work: the choice is yours. Properly masking around all areas that are to be painted is crucial to a clean paint job and site when you are finished. 

We will discuss the many areas and specific techniques for masking:

-Windows are best masked using a hand-masker tool with the appropriate size plastic (2 ft/4 ft/6 ft/etc) and usually 1 inch masking tape. Starting with the top edge, focus on creating a straight line from corner to corner, placing the tape down every six inches or so until the entire line can be pressed firmly down. You will want to mask either the top edge of the vinyl or wood (depending on if you are painting the wood trim around the window or not). Once you have draped the plastic down, you can take another roll of 1 inch tape and secure the other three edges (doing your best to keep a straight line). Double check all four edges, and add additional tape if needed. Check for holes in the plastic before moving on.

-Doors follow the same process as windows, but be aware that you may want access to the door during the painting process, so plan accordingly. 

-Concrete/Rooflines are just as important to mask. I recommend dusting (using an old paint brush or rag) the concrete or roofline thoroughly, then applying a line of 1.5-2 inch tape that we call 'pre-taping.' Once you have pre-taped everything to be masked, you will want to lay down drop cloths along all the walls to be painted. Finally, using a hand-masking tool with masking paper and tape, cover the gap between the wall and the drop cloth. It is usually good practice to seal this paper to the drop cloth using 1 inch tape to prevent paint particles from blowing/dripping underneath the paper or drops. 

-Fixtures are fairly simple to mask: use 1 inch Frog/Painter's tape to pre-tape the edges of the fixture (against the painted surface). Using masking paper or plastic (whichever is appropriate depending on size of fixture), wrap the fixture and secure with a final layer of tape. You don't want to be cleaning overspray off of metal lights when you are done painting! 

Final Prep Work

Essentially all that is left to do is a final blow-off of the wall surfaces, allowing for dry-time of primer (1-2 hours), caulking (4-5 hours), and patching (up to 8 hours). Masking should be done within 24 hours of proposed painting time frame, since leaving masking tape up for longer than that can cause adhesive to remain on vinyl/metal surfaces and is very difficult to remove (you can remove masking as soon as final paint coat is dry!). Be sure to place drop cloths under ANY surface that will be painted- you won't regret it! One drip can stand out on a concrete walkway, rooftop, or deck, so be diligent!

Now you are ready to start painting (or to start looking for a contractor who can fulfill all of these industry prep standards)! Call us today for a free estimate on your home :)

Stay tuned for our next post: Exterior STAINING Prep!

What to Look For In a Painting Contractor

At Bend Custom Painting & Refinishing, we believe that quality of work and customer service are the top priorities for any job we take on. For many contractors, this is also the focus and goal of all projects; so how as a consumer is it possible to differentiate between companies and pick the one that is right for you?

To help the consumer (you) make the correct choice, we have done our best to compile an unbiased guide for choosing a contractor that will meet your specific needs.

History

The past workmanship, warranties, complaints, and references will undoubtedly tell you the most about a contractor's work and the experience of working with them more than any other source. There are countless ways to find out more about every company, but perhaps the more reliable and recommended websites would be:

www.bbb.org (Enter their contractor license number to see reviews and complaints, plus a graded rating scale)

www.angieslist.com (Specialized and localized contractor selection support, ratings, reviews, complaints, and sometimes even photos; great resource)

www.google.com (Companies that list themselves on Google will have contact information, ratings, and reviews)

www.yelp.com (While not as inclusive for contractors as the other sources, some companies will be listed here; great reviews and ratings for those that are listed)

Company Website (This seems obvious; but many people do not take the time to investigate what their selected company offers, and how they portray themselves to potential customers. If a company neglects their web page; they may neglect their quality of work as well. Also remember that better marketing does not equal better workmanship. There are two sides to the coin)

Ask for References

The quickest way to find out if a contractor has happy clients or not is to ask for a list of references (past customers), willing to speak about their experience. Be sure to actually call them! You want to speak with at least three of their references to find out the best and worst memories of their service with this contractor, so you can compare their stories and see if you would like to have a similar one or not. 

Check Out Current Work

If the contractor has recently completed or is currently working on a project; go see it! Seeing the quality of workmanship up close, plus investigating the cleanliness, and perhaps even the customer experience (if possible), will give you more insight into what your home will look like when this contractor is finished with it. 

Quality of Materials

Our first blog post was A Guide to Paints and focused on differentiating between various brands and qualities of paint. As part of selecting your contractor, it is important to figure out what materials they use, so that you may establish the quality of those materials yourself. Every contractor believes they use the 'best' paint, but your definition of best may be different than theirs. 

Explanation of Price

What your budget allows for painting and other home improvement services is up to you. When you select a contractor, you will undoubtedly be using price as a strong indicator of whether or not you work with them. Price should never be regarded as a simple number, however. What goes into the price is perhaps the most important consideration for any homeowner to make. What is the "value" that you are getting? What is the goal of the contractor: quality or profit? You will have to answer these questions yourself. 

The more detailed and in-depth explanation of price that you receive from your contractor, the more informed you will be about their entire workflow, customer experience, and quality (or lasting ability) of their work. If you have a contractor giving you a dollar amount written on a business card, or a single page quote merely explaining the areas to be painted but without any description of how or what preparation techniques will be used, you are flying blind and setting yourself up for disappointment. 

Stay informed, do your research, and compare contractors to find out who is your ideal partner for all areas of home improvement. It's a hard job to do alone!

Custom Home Painting | A Guide to Paints

There are as many different types of paint as there are levels of quality. This can be confusing to the consumer (and to the painting contractor), so we here at Bend Custom Painting & Refinishing have taken it upon ourselves to explain the difference. Through independent research and interviews with established paint store representatives; we have created a comprehensive list of the different qualities of paint, as well as the different brands, so that all those interested in painting may be more educated on the topic.

Paint Composition

Before describing the quality of paint, we must first establish what goes into paint so that we may fully understand. 

Binder

The binder within paint is the component that is responsible for adhesion of the paint to the desired surface. For exterior and interior home painting, the most common binder is Latex (an acrylic compound that is water based). Polyurethanes are the most common binder for deck and raw wood staining. 

Solvent

Solvents are also known as thinners, and they assist with ease of use of paint (or how runny they are). This is known as paint viscosity, and is a large determinant in what paint a contractor may use, depending on interior or exterior use. Water is the most common solvent in modern-day painting, while either alcohol or water will be used in common stains.

Pigment

The pigment is a solid substance blended with the paint that gives it an opacity and color. Many pigment tints are used in modern colors, to allow the homeowner nearly limitless color options. The pigment is also a determinant of the gloss level of paint (flat, satin/eggshell, semi-gloss, full sheen), which increases the UV protection as gloss is increased. 

Additives

Additives are less commonly used, and are more for specialized paint formulas. Common functions of additives may be: acceleration of paint drying, increasing paint flexibility, improving flow properties of paint, and many more. 

Paint Store Representative Interviews

What do you think a consumer should look for in determining quality of paint?

Rusty (Miller Paints)- The warranty info- Miller has the best in the NW. Resins (100% acrylic) are also important to consider. Finally, be sure to do research on where the paint is manufactured and tested. 

Chad (PPG)- Things consumer don’t look at, such as the volume of solids (VOS). The higher the VOS, the higher the quality; this means better coverage and less coats of paint.

What differentiates the qualities of paint (Good, Better, Best)?

Rusty (Miller)- The amount of Resin: vinyl acrylic is cheap! Also, the UV protection and element holdout; mildew resistance, etc. 

Chad (PPG)- The volume of solids is the most important factor in paint consideration. Zero VOC is something all consumers should look for, plus any specialty lines needed (additives to paint).

What differentiates certain paint brands from each other? (Sherwin Williams, Denfield, Pittsburg Paint)

Rusty (Miller)- Miller is made in the NW and for the NW. We also have a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee on all paints and a lifetime warranty.

Chad (PPG)- PPG has the best diversity in product lines; with a product for almost every need. PPG has numerous paint lines owned by company.

What are the differences between your Good, Better, and Best paints? 

Rusty (Miller)- All of our exteriors are 100% acrylic, we have a lifetime warranty on all products. For our exterior paints, the VOS higher as quality/price increases: Evolution 52%, Acri-Lite- 44%, Kril-39%.

Chad (PPG)- The volume of solids is higher for better qualities of paint. We have Manor Hall (available in an exterior eggshell finish, which is the only line to have this option- it is longer lasting than flat and better looking than satin). Sunproof is our popular and competitively priced brand because of its great coverage. Finally we have our Commercial/Contractor brand: SpeedHide. We call it the “workhorse” because it can be used for any project.

Any words of caution for the consumer?

Rusty (Miller)- Consumer Reports is a private entity; companies pay to have products tested, so it doesn’t take into account smaller companies that don't have massive advertising budgets. Be wary of what CR says about paint brands.

Chad (PPG)- Watch out for red flags: you get what you pay for with paint (if it's cheap, that means low quality). Ideally, look for products with high Titanium Dioxide; more is better and means a higher VOS. Remember that at PPG, “Every Job Matters!" Big or little jobs, any need you have, PPG will be able to help you.