Just about every person on the planet can PAINT a house. Simply apply using a brush, roller, or sprayer. Easy, right? Well, that part is easy, yes. However, most professional (and long-lasting) painting contractors know that a paint job is nearly 75% (if not MORE) PREP WORK. There are many different facets of the surface preparation for any home; and I would like to take some time to visit all areas, so that our readers can be more informed and have a more complete view of the painting process.
Surface Washing
There are two steps in the washing for any exterior surface. The first is to simply remove all items from walls that are not permanent fixtures, plus moving lawn furniture and other items away from walls. The second step is to rent or buy a pressure washer (usually minimum 1500 PSI), hook up a garden hose, turn on the water, fire up the washer, and start washing!
Some washing tips:
-Start from the top down. Starting at the bottom will allow all the runoff from above to dirty the surface below.
-Pick a corner of the house to start and work in one direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). This just helps to keep things organized.
-Have plenty of gas waiting. The washing of an entire house can take 2-4 hours, so be prepared to fill up the gas tank at least once (more likely 2-3 times).
-Get as close as possible without scarring the wood/stucco. The closer you can get, the cleaner the surface will be. Scarring the wood/stucco is hard to repair, so find your distance carefully.
-Target dirty, moldy, dusty, cobwebbed, and peeling areas. These are the dirtiest areas and usually require the most prep work after the wash. A thorough wash of these areas can save you hours of prep time though!
-Be prepared to get wet! Water always comes off the higher areas of the house in droves, so wear clothes you can get wet and be ready for a face full of it!
-Have a ladder handy, as those hard to reach eave/soffit areas, plus second story (or third story) homes will require you to be higher than ground level to get a thorough cleaning.
Why do we wash?
Pressure washing the home is your easiest way to save hours of prep work such as scraping and sanding peeling areas, and scrubbing dirty areas. Additionally, the wash of the home is essential to removing dust particulates that may prevent the existing painted surfaces from allowing paint adhesion. The cleaner the surface, the better the adhesion.
BONUS!
For extra dirty and moldy surfaces, a natural mildewcide wash prior to the power wash can aid in mold removal and prevention; helping the paint job last longer and keeping your home free of harmful contaminants!
Scrape, Sand, Prime, Caulk, & Patch
By far the most overlooked part of any paint job, these are the tasks that make or break the longevity of your job. Once the surface is washed and given 2-3 days to dry (depending on region and recent weather), you will want to begin the diligent process of finding "localized failures." A localized failure is any area of the house that has peeling paint, cracks in the wood/stucco, wood/stucco damage, 'bumpy' paint (from moisture expansion), major fading, or just bare wood/stucco.
When we find these areas, the (industry standard) process is as follows:
-Using a scraping tool (14-In-1 or scraper), you will want to remove all loose paint chips from the surface. Make sure to go at it from all angles, being careful not to scar the wood (as bare wood can be particularly soft). I suggest picking a 1 by 1 square foot section and finishing before moving on.
-Once the paint chips are removed, you will want to hand sand or power sand (depending on the location and size of the area) any areas you scraped that now have what is called a lip. A lip is the edge between the previously painted surface and the newly exposed bare surface. When there is any lip that is visible or can be felt to the touch, this allows moisture to seep underneath even after the new primer and paint has been applied and dried. Removing the lip is one of the most important parts of the prep process, so be diligent with your sanding. I suggest starting with a coarse grit sandpaper (usually 50 grit), and then using more fine paper as the lips become smaller (down to about 100 grit). Again, focus on 1x1 square foot areas and complete them before moving on.
-Now that the entire home is scraped and sanded, you'll want to get rid of all those loose paint chips and dust that you removed. A power blower is your best friend here. Starting from the top down, blow off all surfaces and collect all chips/dust into one area for easy sweeping and removal. Just know that you won't get every little piece :)
-When the surface has been blown off, you are ready for priming! What is primer? This is the substance we use that allows paint to adhere to bare surfaces! There are many different brands of primer on the market, all of which are substantial enough to get the job done. You will want to make sure that all bare areas receive a coat of primer, and for extra dirty homes/drastic color change, a full coat of primer (even over existing painted surfaces) is recommended.
NOTE: There are many specialty primers, mostly focused on stopping major peeling. These primers can be useful when budget and/or time are limiting factors in getting your job done. While the longevity will be reduced when using these specialty products (vs a full scrape/sand/prime procedure), they will assist in bonding the peeling materials so that full adhesion and water protection can take place.
-When all bare areas have been primed, then you are ready for caulking. Be aware: it is VERY easy to overdo the caulking! You are looking for larger than hairline cracks in the wall (stick a pencil tip in to see if it fits- caulk if it does!). When you apply caulk, you will want to do a thin bead (only as thick as needed to cover and press into the crack), run over it once with your finger, then take a damp cloth and wipe off any excess. Caulking is also useful for warping corner boards, gaps in siding, stucco cracks, and filling holes prior to patching. Be sure to select a 25+ year brand of caulking that is designed for exterior use (NOT SILICONE) and to be painted over.
-Finally, once everything has been scraped, sanded, primed, and caulked, we are ready for the final cosmetic touch-up: patching! Commonly, patching is used strictly as a cosmetic procedure, but can assist in longevity of the paint job when done correctly. There are also industrial strength patching compounds that can be used for tougher jobs. You first will want to select a patching agent designed for the type of surface that your home has (wood/stucco). For stucco patches, there are varying texture levels, so choose appropriately. Using a putty knife or patching float, apply the patch to the damaged area: first you will want to FILL the damaged area completely, second you will SMOOTH the surface to match existing texture. This may take two coats, so be patient. Once you have matched the texture as closely as possible, you may want to sand any excess patching compound off the surface. Finally, when you have cleaned the surface with a blower or rag, you will want to prime the patch for adhesion (yes, even if it is a primer/patch-in-one product). This procedure will work for industrial strength compounds as well, such as epoxy.
Masking
Masking can be the Achilles heel of paint jobs, or it can save you the most work: the choice is yours. Properly masking around all areas that are to be painted is crucial to a clean paint job and site when you are finished.
We will discuss the many areas and specific techniques for masking:
-Windows are best masked using a hand-masker tool with the appropriate size plastic (2 ft/4 ft/6 ft/etc) and usually 1 inch masking tape. Starting with the top edge, focus on creating a straight line from corner to corner, placing the tape down every six inches or so until the entire line can be pressed firmly down. You will want to mask either the top edge of the vinyl or wood (depending on if you are painting the wood trim around the window or not). Once you have draped the plastic down, you can take another roll of 1 inch tape and secure the other three edges (doing your best to keep a straight line). Double check all four edges, and add additional tape if needed. Check for holes in the plastic before moving on.
-Doors follow the same process as windows, but be aware that you may want access to the door during the painting process, so plan accordingly.
-Concrete/Rooflines are just as important to mask. I recommend dusting (using an old paint brush or rag) the concrete or roofline thoroughly, then applying a line of 1.5-2 inch tape that we call 'pre-taping.' Once you have pre-taped everything to be masked, you will want to lay down drop cloths along all the walls to be painted. Finally, using a hand-masking tool with masking paper and tape, cover the gap between the wall and the drop cloth. It is usually good practice to seal this paper to the drop cloth using 1 inch tape to prevent paint particles from blowing/dripping underneath the paper or drops.
-Fixtures are fairly simple to mask: use 1 inch Frog/Painter's tape to pre-tape the edges of the fixture (against the painted surface). Using masking paper or plastic (whichever is appropriate depending on size of fixture), wrap the fixture and secure with a final layer of tape. You don't want to be cleaning overspray off of metal lights when you are done painting!
Final Prep Work
Essentially all that is left to do is a final blow-off of the wall surfaces, allowing for dry-time of primer (1-2 hours), caulking (4-5 hours), and patching (up to 8 hours). Masking should be done within 24 hours of proposed painting time frame, since leaving masking tape up for longer than that can cause adhesive to remain on vinyl/metal surfaces and is very difficult to remove (you can remove masking as soon as final paint coat is dry!). Be sure to place drop cloths under ANY surface that will be painted- you won't regret it! One drip can stand out on a concrete walkway, rooftop, or deck, so be diligent!
Now you are ready to start painting (or to start looking for a contractor who can fulfill all of these industry prep standards)! Call us today for a free estimate on your home :)
Stay tuned for our next post: Exterior STAINING Prep!